I have Moog springs and they are 4" shorter than stock progressive springs. I am going to try and remove them by removing the lower control arm at the frame. I am thinking I can use a floor jack to support the control arm and then remove the 2 bolts holding it to the frame. Lower the jack to remove the spring. This way I don't need a spring compressor since it is a short spring nor will I need to remove the brakes and separate the ball joint. Anyone done this before?
I have Moog springs and they are 4" shorter than stock progressive springs. I am going to try and remove them by removing the lower control arm at the frame. I am thinking I can use a floor jack to support the control arm and then remove the 2 bolts holding it to the frame. Lower the jack to remove the spring. This way I don't need a spring compressor since it is a short spring nor will I need to remove the brakes and separate the ball joint. Anyone done this before?
Ken, Call me crazy but that is the only way I ever did them. Don't forget to put a jackstand under the frame behind the wheel on the side you are working on then do the same for the otherside. You need to use a tuning fork on the bottom ball/joint also to disconnect it. Try not to rip the grease boot. When building my Street Rod I did the same thing in putting my shorten springs in but had some problems keeping the frame down being there was no weight on the frame being the motor wasn't installed yet or body at the time. I cheated though. I took by 1957 Towmotor Fork Lift that I use for my business and set the forks down on the frame with a wooden pallet to keep it from lifting off the ground.
One question I thought you were going to just cut a link out of your former springs. I didn't go and buy new springs for my S-Rod I just cut the bottom link out with my cutting torch from a set that was on the front clip of a Mustang II I purchased from the junkyard back during the early 90's. Cleaned them up and painted them and they looked like new and are just right.
Not for nothing but you are scaring me when you mentioned 4 inches shorter then your stock springs. I sure home you don't have any problems with bottoming out. Especially with your front tires to your wheel wells.
-- Edited by ffas23 on Monday 3rd of August 2009 03:16:53 AM
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I don't have stock springs. I have a set of Moog springs on the car and a 2nd set I got from a forum member just in case the cut of 1/2 coil doesn't work out. The Moog springs are 4" shorter than stock Corvette springs as they are not progressive.
Why did you remove the lower ball joint? Can't you just remove the 2 bolts to the frame and lower the are with a floor jack and then with the spring unloaded swing the arm out of the way?
Ken, The ball joint needs to be disconnected in order to seat the spring inside the A-Frame correctly and to open up the A-Frame wide enough to get the old spring out. Doing it the way you would want to do it I feel if it could be done would be more dangerous using a floor jack. I never heard of anyone doing it any other way then the way I have done mine. I really don't think it could be done the way you are talking about being the ball joint still connected would'nt give enough room to set the new spring inside or get the old one out. With the ball joint disconnected the bottom A-Frame just swings down as you lower the floor jack to the ground with the 2 bolts still connected that hold it to the frame. At that point you can take the old Spring out and set in your new spring. Then you can jack up the swinging A-Frame up as it compresses the new spring to make all connections. Bolt the shock up last. If I remember correctly doing it the way I am telling you will allow you to position the Spring correctly into the A-Frame. On some vehicles from what I remember the beginning of the Spring sits in a certain location in the A-Frame. The last time I done this as mentioned was when building my Street Rod frame back in '92. You have to do the same thing when taking the bottom A-Frame off of the car to put new bushings on both sides where it is bolted to the cars frame when needed.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
Follow-up. I traded some shocks for a 2nd set of Moog springs, cut them 1 full coil or about 3/4". The last coil on these springs have almost no gap so it did not really affect spring load. After installing them and going for a ride, it dropped the front 3/4" which was perfect. I didn't want to drop more than 1" total. Just wanted the fender opening to be level with the highest part of the tire. Since my tires are not as tall as the stock tires. 225/50X17. I ended up removing the upper ball joint as the lower would not budge. Didn't need a spring compressor or chain as the Moog are so short they just fall out. So much easier than the longer original spring. Also made sure the top of the spring was 3/4" behind the hole on the frame. MSI was the shop that ripped me off and they had the springs in the wrong position covering the lower control arm drain hole.
Ken, I never heard of MSI but isn't it a shame you can't depend on anyone but yourself nowadays to do the correct work on your car? Let these members know where MSI is located and what MSI stands for. ON this forum we hold nothing back. Other members need to know who to trust out there to do competent Corvette repairs for them.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
Ken, Your car looks great and sits real nice. They are some beautiful pictures you took. If I may ask what type of camera where these pictures shot on?
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
Ken, Your car looks great and sits real nice. They are some beautiful pictures you took. If I may ask what type of camera where these pictures shot on?
Fred,
Thanks..........camera is a Canon Power Shot SD500 Digital Elph. I just point and shoot as I am not a camera guy. Too many settings so I leave it on automatic.
