Well, my cheap NAPA 60amp re-manufactured Delco-Remy alternator started making crackling noises when my a/c and electric fan are both on. I noticed with the electric radiator fan going and turning the a/c on, the amp meter takes a pretty good dive to the neg side. Turn the a/c off it jumps up to the 0 at idle. Then I hear crackling sounds coming from the alternator with a/c on and fan running. Especially loud when I rev up the motor a little.
So what replacement should I get? I want to stay with stock looking and I am using normal V belts. I'm thinking of upgrading to 100amp. Summit has them for around $140. I don't want a 1 wire. Recommendations? Here are a couple of pics:
Ken with all the new stuff you have under your hood going with the 100amp from Summit sounds about right with me. What do you have now? Is it a stock replacement alternator from NAPA?. Do you have aftermarkert air in your car. Just curious.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
Excuse me for not having as much knowledge as I should have on early vetts .It seems logical to me to look hard at the 100 amp .Also I realize that we're forced into buying a lot of re-built stuff .The reason the item was re-built the first time might be the reason it failed the second .Alternators and starters are always an issue with me.
It is a stock replacement Delco-Remy 61 amp re-manufactured from NAPA. It worked fine with my Vintage A/C and also when I first added the electric fan. But I think it just can't handle the load when both the fan and A/C are on. Especially when I turn the A/C up to hi it gets worse. When I turn the A/C off or the electric fan goes off, no noise/crackling. I want to stay with the stock style and not the one wire. I'm not into chrome much but natural or even polished would be ok. I'm thinking 100 amp would be plenty since I don't have anything else really drawing much current. No big stereo or amplifier.
PS........I took the belt off and spun the fan, it spins freely and I can hear the bearings so I am assuming the bearings are shot and when I have both the A/C and electric fan going it is probably too much causing the crackling noise?
-- Edited by kensmith on Sunday 11th of July 2010 02:31:09 PM
Can you check the draw when the fan is on? Are the fan and A/C interconnected? I'm not sure why the fan turns off when you turn off the A/C. (My thinking with an electric fan is it turns on and off with engine temp as needed.)
A/C wired with fuse to battery. Electric fan wired with fuse to the battery. Both independent of each other. Only problem is when A/C fan is running on hi and the electric radiator fan kicks on. (yes, electric radiator fan has a temp sender that turns it on and off).
-- Edited by kensmith on Tuesday 13th of July 2010 10:23:00 AM
Is it the fan that's crackling or the alternator? Since the electric fan works fine withhout the A/C I don't think it's the problem. Sounds like too much juice pulling at once. I'd try that 100 amp altenator unless there's another electrical relay or gizmo we haven't thought about (yet) to check.
It's definitely the alternator. I took it off and spun it. Sounds like it's a little loose and you can hear the bearings? Spins like a top with no friction at all. When I had it on the car, I put my ear close to it and I could hear it crackle. I think I will get a 75 amp alternator. The 100 amp may be too much for the electrical system. Might have to upgrade to a heavier gauge alternator wire too.
If you can get a reading of the amp pull for both the fan and the A/C (on high), you might be able to determine whether a 75 or 100 amp alternator will do. Just trying to save an extra trip...
If you can get a reading of the amp pull for both the fan and the A/C (on high), you might be able to determine whether a 75 or 100 amp alternator will do. Just trying to save an extra trip...
The only reason I was thinking 75 amp over the 100 amp is the wiring. If I go with 100 amp, I will need to change the lead to a minimum of 8 gauge wire. I think I have 10 gauge now. Maybe even 12? Or if I was smart I go with 100, re-wire with 8 gauge, upgrade the VR to solid state and not worry.
Everything that you have is too much for a 61 amp alternator to handle. You've got to go bigger if your system will except it.
What ever you do don't trade in the 61 amp alternator because of a bad front bearing. I have changed out the inner and outer bearing on those Alternators plenty of times. Its a easy job and the bearings are cheap. Most of the time the back bearing just needs some added grease to it. The front bearing is sealed. The easiest way to change it out is to use an air gun on the big nut to break it. You then need to spit the alternator (4 screws) in the back of it and mark it with a piece of chalk or magic marker across the alternator where it splits in order to put it back at the same clock position. When you pull it apart of course the brushes will fall out and the 2 springs behind them. When putting it back together you just use a small paperclip straigtened out to hold the brushes together and when put back together pull the paperclip out the back. Before doing so and while the alternator is split you will see 3 screws with a flat cap over the sealed front bearing. You take those 3 screws out and turn the front piece of the alternator on a flat work bench and with a hammer and small socket you just tap the old bearing out and from the other side tap the new bearing back in where the old bearing came out. Put the flat cap back on and 3 screws and you are good to go. Takes minutes to do. At that point you realign both front and back pieces of the alternator and put it together matching up the chalk mark. Put your 4 screws back in and you are done. At that point pull the paperclip out of the back to reseat the brushes. Put the big nut back on just using a rachet and socket with a large screwdriver behind the fan and pully on the alternator to just hold it in place at the moment you tighten the nut.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I'm going to trash the cheap re-manufactured 61 amp alternator from NAPA. It has less than 500 miles on it and probably has Chinese inners. Not going to waste my time as I am pissed it took a dump so soon. I am going to buy a 100 amp external regulator alternator and upgrade to a solid state voltage regulator.
In my younger day I would have calmly re-built it. Now that I am over 60, I trash stuff when I get made and just buy new better stuff. Guess I am tired of the BS crap being sold in the auto parts industry. Seems anything re-built or re-manufactured is junk.
You are almost guaranteed to have Chineze parts in the new alternator you buy for sure. Plenty of the new parts are no better then the rebuilts but hopefully being you are a lucky fellow your odds are good that you won't have any problems with it.
Just make sure you are not making your Fan Belt to tight. That is one of the main reason for wiping out alternator bearings and water pump bearings.
-- Edited by ffas23 on Thursday 15th of July 2010 02:25:23 PM
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I try for 1" play in the belt when trying to move the belt back and forth in the middle open area. I need to loosen the belt for the compressor as I tightened it to too much as I thought the noise was a belt slipping at first. The bearing is probably my fault with too tight of a belt. But not sure why the crackling noise from the alternator.
-- Edited by kensmith on Thursday 15th of July 2010 02:43:50 PM
That crackling noise you hear is probably the front bearing. Don't know what else could be doing it inside from what I know about alternators. Most of the regulators you buy today in the aftermarket are electronic you will find. I have one in my '67. Wasn't going to pay the big bucks for an original. The electronic works just fine probably better then the mechanical anyway.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I talked to a CF member on the phone. He said it could have been a wire that came loose in the alternator or broken brush and arching to make the noise. He also gave me some great info on how to wire my A/C and electric fan to a separate breaker I will install and run a 2nd hot wire off of the alternator to the breaker to handle just the fan and A/C and leave the factory wiring alone. He was a super nice guy that knows his stuff. Thats what forums are all about. People helping those of us that need help and God knows I can use all the help I can get!
I talked to a CF member on the phone. He said it could have been a wire that came loose in the alternator or broken brush and arching to make the noise. He also gave me some great info on how to wire my A/C and electric fan to a separate breaker I will install and run a 2nd hot wire off of the alternator to the breaker to handle just the fan and A/C and leave the factory wiring alone. He was a super nice guy that knows his stuff. Thats what forums are all about. People helping those of us that need help and God knows I can use all the help I can get!
That's the way to do it! Great suggestion/solution!
-- Edited by Sebringbill on Sunday 18th of July 2010 08:20:37 PM
Well, with new alternator and voltage regulator I still got the crackling/clicking sound and now I think it's either the horn relay or the A/C compressor clutch. I'm going to buy a new horn relay as mine looks pretty corroded. Guess I can get one at the local auto parts store?
OK, can you get some help (and a good set of ears) and determine where that crackling is really coming from? Unless, of course you wanna become real friendly with your local FLAPS.
BTW, do the horns work? If they do I'm not leaning towards the horn relay.
-- Edited by Sebringbill on Monday 2nd of August 2010 12:12:14 AM
My ears are horrible. I can't tell where sounds are coming from anymore. Guess it's old age? I can hear it coming from the front of the motor and only when the A/C is on so it's probably an electrical issue. I doubt it's the horn relay as I now suspect it's the compressor clutch getting stuck between engage and disengage somehow but that's just a guess. The problem is it's intermittent. If it kept making the noise, I might have better luck but it doesn't always do it. And, I'm not good with electrical so may have to take it to my mechanic.
Proscess of elimination. Try unplugging the A/C Compressor and disconnecting the belt for 5-10 minutes while running the engine to see if the noise goes away.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
The noise only happens with the A/C compressor engaged. When A/C is off, no noise, when on and compressor cycles, clutch engaged, noise occurs intermittently. I'm thinking either bad compressor clutch or spikes in power causing clutch to not fully engage. I may try taking it to an A/C repair shop to see what they think.
Update...........not sure it's the compressor but may be due to low freon causing extra drag on the compressor and motor. Noticed milky looking tiny bubbled in the sight glass of the receiver/dryer and the compressor seem to be putting a lot more strain on the motor where it will hardly idle. Going to take it to my mechanic next week as I think it must be related to the noise I hear.
My mechanic said the electric fan is not wired to come on when the compressor comes on and is causing the compressor to work too hard. Which in turn puts too much pressure on the belt and crank pulley. I did notice when the electric fan kicks in the sound goes away. So he is wiring the fan to come on whenever the a/c is turned on.
1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
He ended up using a relay for the compressor so now the electric fan comes on if the compressor is on and/or the motor temp hits 195. Drove home with the A/C blowing and the temp outside was 95 degrees. No noise at all! That was the problem all along, too much pressure from the compressor causing belt noise on the crank pulley.
Ya, wish I could have just figured it out to start with. I just can't hear stuff anymore and with the loud sidepipes, electric fan, this old fart has even a harder time hearing!
Don't feel bad Ken. Between playing in a Rock band during the mid to late 60's and the loud pipes I can't hear so well anymore myself like I use to. Still I don't ever plan on getting one of the hearing aids that I keep getting flyers about in the mail.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
But not sure why the crackling noise from the alternator.
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