I'm attempting to change the bulbs on my 67 now and I must admit it has been a very frustrating experience.
I have the speedo and tach disconnected and the oil line still attached. I really don't want to touch it as its bone dry and does not leak. I see enough extra line at the fire wall (coils) so I'm not worried about it. - It's the original line - never changed. The column is loose and the dash is no where near hitting it.
The left side of the cluster wants to move out more freely then the side with the speedo and oil gauge. The ignition switch is still installed. I have the cluster on a few long bolts. I'm not sure what is holding the cluster back so I can't get to the directional signal bulbs out from the front side of the cluster. I have everything else connected as is. Do I need to remove the ignition and light switches as well? And the up/down headlamp bucket switch is also in place. And also my dash wiring harness is still "clipped" to the bak of the cluster - as the dash has NEVER been removed since new. I dont think this matters as I am not tryong to remove the cluster - just changing the bulbs.
Any suggestions to enable the cluster to move more forward on the long bolts?
So how do you change the bulbs? - like the directional signals - from the side front or from the back.. How do you change the top warning lights - from the front top of the dash? and how do you change the rest of them? from the back underneath? They are really hard to push back in. Do you use any special tools?
Changed all of the dash cluster bulbs today - - An experience I won't soon forget - The worst part - Plugging the lamp sockets back in - Totally Insane! - Miller Time!
The last time I had a Cluster out of a C2 was way back in 1971 on my first '67 Vert when I was about 19-20 years old. Not a easy task for sure. Today many guys either taking them out all together or move them forward to change out bulbs as in your case using very long screws or bolts in place of the ones holding the cluster to the dash. That from what I understand makes it a much easier job. My bet based on what I read of your situation not being able to move the cluster forward was probably because of your speedometer cable and Tack still connected and maybe light switch still hooked up but I see you managed to do the job. I had the front seat out also when I did my work so that I could lay out better on the floor area to see what I was doing. At my age now it would be much tougher for sure.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
- An experience I won't soon forget - The worst part - Plugging the lamp sockets back in - Totally Insane! - Miller Time! 
