I am going to remove my sidepipes and just asking if there are any simple tricks to do it. Like, do I need to remove the covers? It looks pretty straight forward but since I have never done it, just wondering! 65 with small block and stock ramshorn 2 1/2".
Well, after starting the post, I got started on removal. No need to remove the side covers but definitely need some PB Blaster on the 3 nuts that hold the pipe to the ramshorns. They don't budge and I don't want to break them. So will blast them and wait and see if I can get them to budge.
Anyone got a bottle of nitrous I can borrow? I'll freeze them off!
Ken, Removing sidepipes is a easy task especially if you have a lift but I have done them on my back in the past plenty of times with just 4 jack stands and a floor jack. PB Blaster is the best nut penetrant based on my experience of selling CRC, WD40 and other brands out there over the last 31 years. 3 nuts at the exhaust manifold and the nut at the back of the tailpipe is all that is needed to loosen up to drop the pipe. No need to do anything with the heat shields. When you put the pipes back up you will see that by adjusting the 3 nuts at the exhuast manifold you will bring the pipe up or down to where it sits against the frame and heat shields. When doing this just hand tighten the back nut at the tail pipe end of the side pipe. When done tighten the back nut.
Ken if the PB Blaster doesn't do the trick you will probably need to use some heat from a torch to break the nuts. PB Blaster should do the trick though. There is something in the product that actually eats at the rust breaking it lose.
-- Edited by ffas23 at 07:30, 2008-11-17
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
PB Blaster kind of worked but one nut would not break loose. I got it out by spraying the Blaster from the top of the manifold so it worked its way down the stud and then removed the stud with the frozen nut. Figured if the nut would not budge, maybe the stud would and it did!
I'll tell you something Ken. Back here in the North East we get some snow during the winter. Years ago I wanted to take the bottom blade off of my snow plow and replace it with a new one. The place I purchased the new blade from told me to don't even think about spraying the nuts and bolts to try to loosen them to take the old blade off. I was told to use a cutting torch to cut the bolts and nuts off. Well of course I had it in my mind to try using PB Blaster first since I sold the product. There must of been at least 10-15 nuts and bolts that I needed to hit with PB Blaster. I did so and let the blade sit for about an hour while I went in for Supper. I came back out and using my air gun losened all nuts and bolts except for one. I resprayed that one again and waited to the next day and hit it with my air gun and that one also came lose. I could of actually used the same nuts and bolts again but chose to go with the new ones that came with the brand new blade. At that point I was convinced the PB Blaster was the best penetrant on the market.
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1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
