When I removed my sidepipes I noticed the left manifold was difficult to remove. Well, one of the studs was stripped in the manifold and another was just barely holding as one of the tabs was broken off. The guy who did this had to know it and I think for sure it was the guy I bought it from since he put the sidepipes on. So now I need another one. Part # 3846563, 2 1/2", which has the holes facing forward for the alternator. I have an eye on one that is refurbished for $150 and seems like a fair price. At lease it's original so I know it will fit!
Ken, Why don't you post a picture so we can see what you are talking about. I got lost when you spoke about studs in your manifold. I don't remember using any studs on any of my exhaust manifolds on any of my Chevy's. Bolts only.
__________________
1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
Ken Can't you install a new stud and weld it in place ? Once you are done you shouldn't have to mess with it anymore. Just a thought. Would be a lot cheaper. Rick
Ken Can't you install a new stud and weld it in place ? Once you are done you shouldn't have to mess with it anymore. Just a thought. Would be a lot cheaper. Rick
I could but there is also a stripped hole that would need to be re-tapped and an oversize bolt. Not sure it would be a good repair. I also don't have the chunk that is missing. I did find another manifold for $150 plus shipping so may go that route! Thanks! (the bolt that is stripped is not out of the area that is broken).
Ken, I would probably try to go the same route as Mr. Muffler and put a new stud in by hand which it looks like you can do and if you don't weld have someone fill in the broken part with weld or braze and grind it to where you can't tell. You can then paint the manifold or use that manifold gray casting paint or what ever most are using these days and you probably won't see it. Wouldn't hurt to give it a try. Previous to seeing your pictures I guess I was thinking of how your exhaust manifold bolted to your engine. On some GM vehicles a stud with a nut as part of the stud was used on exhaust manifolds around where the power steering was located to mount the back of the power steeing unit to. Anyway at the moment of reading your thread I was thrown off and didn't think you were talking about where the exhaust pipe connected to it for some reason.
__________________
1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I'm going to try and tap the stripped hole and if that works, Maybe I will try to find someone to weld the stud on the broken flange. Guess it's worth a try anyway!
I'm going to try and tap the stripped hole and if that works, Maybe I will try to find someone to weld the stud on the broken flange. Guess it's worth a try anyway!
Ken, I think it is worth a try. Once the area is filled in just use a an electric hand grinder to get it the way you want it before you dress it up with exhuast coating. Braze seems to stick to the castings pretty darn well. On my car I used Braze on my passenger side exhaust manifold heatriser block as the butterfly was rusted frozen. I used a cutting torch to cut out the butterfly and filled the holes on both sides with braze which is brass and then ground it down on each side while filing the inside instead of purchasing one of the replacement none heatriser casting blocks from Chevrolet. I then painted it up and you can't tell the difference. Most people just go out and purchase a new one.
__________________
1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
One of the guys here at work has a welder and will weld a new stud into the broken hole. I will take a photo when done and post it. I tapped out the stripped hole and the new same size stud worked just fine in it so did not have to go to a larger stud! That was a major concern as a larger stud requires a larger nut and with 2 1/2" pipes may not have had enough room between the nut and the pipe to turn the nut. So far, so good!
Ken, Take an electric handgrinder similar to the one in the picture listed below. If you haven't used one you will be surprised as to what it will do for you. If I had that manifold I could make that repair look like it wasn't there with one of those grinders. They aren't that expensive either. You should be able to pick one up at a Harbor Freight for under 20 bucks. I must own 3 or 4 of them that I used for steel brushing and grinding.
__________________
1967 Marlboro Maroon 4spd Coupe 1973 Dark Blue 4spd Coupe w/air, original 25,000 miles 1999 Black C-5 Hatchback Coupe 6spd LS1 1934 Ford 3 Window Coupe eng. code "ZZZ" 350-345hp Chevy Powered! 1970 Black on Black Monte Carlo(FOR SALE)Asking $18k
I have a air grinder that will clean it up a little. I don't need to make it perfect since it will never be seen. But it does need some cleaning up I do agree!
